Grasshopper

A dessert served in a stemmed glass

New Orleans claims this one. The story runs that a Tujague’s bartender, Philibert Guichet, entered an equal-parts mint-and-cacao drink in a 1918 competition in New York and came second, which in practice made the recipe famous. It has been an after-dinner fixture ever since.

Why the parts are equal

One ounce of green crème de menthe, one of white crème de cacao, one of cream. The symmetry is not decoration: the two liqueurs sit at similar sugar levels and the cream splits the difference, so moving one measure throws the glass into either toothpaste or syrup. If yours tastes medicinal, that is usually a cheap brand leaning on peppermint oil; a good crème de menthe tastes of fresh garden mint.

Cream technique decides the texture

Cream is an emulsion, and it needs cold and motion. Chill the tin first, shake for a full fifteen seconds — noticeably longer than a citrus drink — and you will feel the mixture thicken as the fat sets. Strain into a well-chilled cocktail glass with no ice in it; a Grasshopper poured over cubes looks grey and tastes thin within minutes.

Strength and sweetness

Roughly 16% ABV and about 240 calories, which puts it firmly in dessert territory rather than aperitif.

Common faults

• Under-shaking. Ten seconds gives a warm, loose drink that separates on the table.
• Substituting milk. Milk lacks the fat to hold the foam and the cocktail collapses.
• Green crème de cacao. It dyes the drink swamp-coloured; only the clear version belongs here.

Riffs that earn their place

Freeze the mixture in a shallow tray and scrape it into a coupe for a Grasshopper granita, or swap the cream for coconut cream with a pinch of salt for a lighter, tropical version.

Should a Grasshopper be shaken or blended?

Shaken, unless you are making the frozen version. A blender whips in too much air and the texture turns to mousse.

Can you make it without dairy?

Yes. Oat cream shakes up nearly as well as dairy cream and does not curdle against the mint liqueur.